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I would like to explain how the train system is truly un-Japanese. Sure
the system is as impressive as the freeway system in Los Angeles and it is
efficient and known for its punctuality. It is also known for its crowded
commutes. In the 80's I remember looking at pictures of people in white
gloves pushing commuters back into the car trying to push more and more
people into the car. I sort of thought that it was something that was more
fiction than reality...but the trains are a place where the rules of
Japanese society are suspended and the real demons come out.
The first time I rode a commuter train was this year as I was going to
work. I was forced into a small sardine case with what seemed like hundreds
of other people. Being taught to always talk politely I would say my "excuse
me's" and "sorry's" to try to find a good place to stand and not be too
pushed around. I found that I was the only one. Never have I seen a more
un-Japanese like behavior in my life!! I dont mean to say this as a bad
point, it is just funny how social graces are stopped in the train. There
are flying elbows to push you out of the way, fists to the back to give you
more room, mad rushes out the door no more than three or four feet wide, no
giving up seats for women, elderly or handicapped. (in some cases there are
designated seats.) In fact it is not commuting, it is war! There are limited
hand rails, and so when the train gyrates back and forth the mass of people
that are standing freely seem to roll with the flow causing a massive domino
affect. Those that are holding on for dear life find that their feet are in
one place, their body at a 45 degree angle and trying to muscle a body of
people who have fallen over on top of each other.
 Japanese are masters at escaping reality on the trains. Hardly ever do you
see people looking at other people and what is going on. Making eye contact
is death! People are reading books, listening to music and my personal
favorite, faking like they are asleep, even while standing. Those that are
sleeping while sitting down are particularly annoying! They fall asleep and
lose all control of their muscles as they turn into some limp noodle and
wave back and forth with the train, usually in my direction. They will
slowly lean over towards me and then end up resting their head on my
shoulder...men and women alike. A few elbows to nudge them usually
straightens them up, but they are back to their tricks in no time.
For a society that preaches social harmony it is interesting to see all
the shouting and pushing and shoving and aggressive behavior that goes on in
these commuter trains. There is a big problem of men that take advantage of
all the crowdedness to touch women in indiscreet places. There are signs
warning would be molesters that people are watching and to stop. There is a
problem of people running to trains to catch THIS ONE, ending up getting
body parts stuck in the doors...even though two minutes later another train
comes down the tracks People burst out the doors and start a massive race to
the exit gates, pushing slower people out of the way.
Yes, this may sound like New York, (sorry for the jab) but for all its
hilarity, the Japanese have endured this system fairly well for a long time.
I have often complained about this and thanked the freeway system in LA for
not putting me through the commuter hell in Japan. Because I know that in
other places, the behavior in commuter trains wouldnt be so gentile! |
